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Meera Sodha’s caramelised onion and chilli ramen

Sticky onions combine with miso, stock and sake to make a ramen inspired by French onion soup

The 20 best noodle recipes – in full

From the outside, Japanese food can seem rigid, steeped in centuries of tradition. But the truth is that it is a story of continual innovation. Ramen, for example, is an adaptation of Chinese wheat noodles and was first introduced to Japan by Chinese immigrants in the early 20th century. And although there is only one name to describe this soupy noodle dish, there are as many variations of ramen as there are cooks in Japan.

My recipe evolved from an unlikely place, taking inspiration from a French onion soup I ate in Paris. Here, sticky onions combine with miso, stock and sake to make a very special tasting soup.

Note: use Chinese rice wine or dry sherry if you can't find cooking sake. To veganise this dish, simply drop the eggs and use vegan stock.

Serves 4
rapeseed oil 5 tbsp, plus a little for cooking noodles
brown onions 3 large (500g), finely sliced
garlic 3 cloves, finely sliced
salt ½ tsp
bird’s-eye chilli 1, finely sliced
vegetable stock 1½ litres
cooking sake 2 tbsp
light soy sauce 1½ tbsp
brown rice miso 1 tbsp
ramen noodles 200g
choi sum 200g, cut into 6cm pieces
soy eggs 4 (see below), or soft-boiled eggs (optional)
chilli oil to serve (optional)

For the overnight soy eggs (makes 6)
light soy sauce 100ml
white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
caster sugar 2 tbsp
eggs 6 medium

To make the overnight soy eggs, first, set up somewhere to leave your eggs to marinate. I like to use a Kilner jar, but you could also use a deep plastic box.

Pour the soy sauce, vinegar, caster sugar and 150ml of cold water into your chosen container and stir to mix.

Next, take a bowl that will fit all the eggs and put a couple of handfuls of ice in it. Add cold water to the bowl so it’s three-quarters full, and leave to one side.

To cook the eggs, take a saucepan just big enough to hold the eggs snugly (so they can’t rattle around too much), fill it half full of water and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat. When the water is at a rolling boil, gently lower the eggs into the water using a large spoon.

Cook for exactly 7 minutes (set a timer) from the moment the last egg hits the water. Drain and pop the eggs into the bowl of iced water to cool off.

Leave for 10 minutes, then peel the eggs (it sometimes helps to peel under the water to keep them perfect) and drop them into the soy mixture.

Put a piece of kitchen paper over the eggs to keep them submerged, and place in the fridge. Leave overnight, then remove the eggs from the solution and transfer to an airtight container in the morning.

They will keep for a week in the fridge (and the solution can be used for another round of eggs).

For the ramen, in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, warm the oil over a medium heat. Add the onions, garlic and salt, stir and cook for 8-10 minutes, until the onions become translucent. Reduce the heat to its lowest setting and continue to cook for 30 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. The onions will gradually caramelise and colour, eventually breaking down. Add the chilli and stock, bring to boil, then reduce to a simmer and add the sake, soy sauce and brown rice miso, stirring well to combine. Check the seasoning.

Cook your noodles according to the packet instructions. Refresh in cold water and stir in a little oil to keep them from sticking. Finally, bring the broth back to the boil, add the choi sum and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until tender.

To serve, divide your noodles between four bowls and ladle the broth and greens over the noodles. If you’re serving the eggs, halve and pop on top, along with some chilli oil if you like.

From East by Meera Sodha (Penguin, £20)

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